fshfanatic’s Blog

West Africa is host to a variety of aquatic habitats harboring many tropical fish of interest to the hobbyist. In this article I’ll show you how to set up an aquarium to accommodate some of them.

The region is vast, and regular imports include fish from areas such as forest streams, river rapids and flood plains. The selection of species is rich and diverse and is comparable to that of the Amazon.

If you’re into keeping oddballs then a West African tank could be the tank for you. Take your pick from lungfish, mormyrids, pufferfish, knifefish, spiny eels, snakeheads and Polypterus.

For those of you who are a little more conservative, I’ve chosen a selection of readily available dwarf cichlids and some nice alternatives to Congo tetras.

For an effective West African aquascape, choose as large a tank as you can accommodate. This will provide space for large shoals of characins, and territories for several types of dwarf cichlid, which, although small, need at least 60cm of tank length per pair.

An observation that I have made when keeping different types of African tetras is that they can all be extremely skittish even in heavily planted tanks.

It is for this reason that I don’t advise keeping them in busy households as they will never settle. To put the fish at ease I have stocked the aquarium quite heavily for the photo, but would not advise maintaining this many fish in a tank of that size.

I’ve set the tank up to create a dark, ‘old world’ aquascape. I’ve used silica grit as a substrate, as this absorbs a lot of light and I’ve built a background of Curiowood right up to the water surface, providing lots of hiding places and shaded areas. The large wood pieces form the basis for the whole design while also effectively hiding the internal filter and heater thermostat.

When adding this much wood to an aquarium it will quickly stain the water. Curio wood, bogwood and Mopani wood release tannins into water when submerged, slightly acidifying it and turning it the colour of tea.

Soft water species, like most tetras, won’t mind it one bit but too much brown water can make a tank look dirty and so I’ve added a carbon insert to the internal filter to combat this. Carbon adsorbs natural organic substances that cause discoloration.

For planting, I’ve chosen several varieties of Anubias, which are native to Africa. These hardy plants do best when tied to wood or rocks and grown raised above the bottom of the aquarium. Over time their sucker-like roots attach securely to the wood ensuring a firm grip. They do not need bright light and their tough, waxy leaves can even be scrubbed with an algae pad to remove algae. They are, however, slow growers and this is often reflected in their higher price tags.

In contrast to the green Anubias I’ve added some colour with the deep red leaves of a tropical water lily, Nymphaea stellata. This lily isn’t of African origin but is possibly the most frequently available of the tropical lilies.

For an authentic West African lily, look for Nymphaea lotus zenkeri, which has wonderful variegated red and green leaves and will flower under the right conditions. Lilies need feeding if they are to do well and so I suggest placing a fertiliser tablet under each bulb.

If after a month or so you remove the carbon from the filter, with the worst of the wood leaching over, then the use of a liquid fertiliser will also give good results.

Fish species that provide movement in the mid- to surface-water layers include Arnoldichthys spilopterus, Brycinus longipinnis and Alestopetersius (formerly Hemigrammopetersius) caudalis.

These medium-sized characins are quite long lived and get much better over time when kept in the right conditions. Many West African fish will do OK in medium-hard water but will have better condition and colour, and may even breed when kept in soft acidic water.

For cichlid interest I’ve included Kribensis, Pelvicachromis pulcher, and Anomalochromis thomasi (see September issue). Kribs are cheap, widely available and easy to sex. They will breed in a community tank and both sexes can become extremely colourful. For the cichlid collectors out there, look for the Kribs’ less commonly available cousins such as Pelvicachromis subocellatus and P. taeniatus, which are available in a number of geographical variants.

If space isn’t a problem, consider larger cichlid alternatives like Chromidotilapia guentheri or Thysochromis ansorgii (which appear from time to time) or Jewel cichlids, Hemichromis spp., of which Hemichromis lifalili is one of the more peaceful. I’ve included some Leopard-spotted climbing perch, Ctenopoma acutirostre, a ‘smallish’ oddball which is highly predatory of small fish.

Also in the set-up are Giant lampeyes, Aplocheilichthys sp., which get to about the same size as Platies. These can
be kept with the Climbing perch at the moment, but if the perch become disproportionately large (they have large extendible mouths), then one or the other will have to be removed.

Step-by-step

1 Choose a suitably-sized aquarium for the intended inhabitants and place on a sturdy, level surface. Matching aquariums and cabinets are a good idea as you can be sure that the cabinet will take the weight of the fully furnished aquarium. However, beware of secondhand aquariums and old tanks that have not held water for a long time – it’s quite possible that the silicone seal may have deteriorated and could need resealing.

2 Newly-purchased silica grit is really dusty. Only place it on the aquarium bottom when you are sure that you have given it a thorough rinse. Dust from the gravel can take weeks to work its way out of the aquarium via the filter, causing cloudy water in the meantime. I’ve placed a layer of grit on the aquarium to a depth of about 5cm/2″. This is enough for anchorage of plants while still being easy to maintain with a gravel siphon.

3 I’ve placed the heater-thermostat and filter in the tank before the Curiowood to place them in optimum, functional positions. The filter should be placed in a vertical position in the rear of the aquarium where the outlet will agitate the surface, thus oxygenating the water. I’ve used a Fluval Plus internal filter and a Rena XP external filter for filtration here. The flow is directed against the glass with a spraybar to minimise excessive water movement.

4 I’ve found some large pieces of Curiowood to start off the aquascape. Make sure that they are not so large that they won’t pass through the aquarium stress-bars. Large, heavy pieces of wood will need to be securely placed on the base of the tank as they will be supporting other pieces that will be placed on top of them. Leave a gap around the heater and filter so that you have room to remove the filter for maintainance. The heater needs space for proper water circulation.

5 Now place smaller pieces on top to fill gaps in the background. Give the structure a good shake to make sure that it is stable. You can use plastic cable ties to fasten wood pieces together. With practice, you will be able to construct a rootscape that looks fairly natural. When building the wood up to the top, ensure that it does not protrude too far out of the water where it may touch light fittings.

6 Fill the tank with water from buckets or, for big tanks, it may be easier to use a hose. For soft, dechlorinated water from day one use RO water, which is virtually nitrate- and phosphate-free. RO water can be purchased from many retail outlets. Don’t forget to remineralise this before adding fish. Raw RO is not suitable for fish. You can now turn on the filter and heater. I’ve set the heater to warm the water to 26˚C/79˚F.

7 Place the Anubias in the
wood structure and for now leave them in their pots. This way, you can keep moving them around until you are happy with their final position. When plants are added you will need to make sure they receive between ten and 12 hours of light a day, which in this case will be provided by two fluorescent tubes plugged into an automatic timer. Anubias don’t need massive amounts of light, so there’s no need for extra lighting.

8 The lilies will become key focal points in the aquarium. Again, move them around until you are happy with their final position. Be careful, however, because the delicate submersed leaves may tear or break off. Tropical lilies are also available as bulbs, which are packed with enough energy to fuel a rapid growth spurt.

Bulb-grown lilies have a tendency to produce surface leaves if not pruned regularly. You can keep them looking lush with lots of underwater foliage by pruning them regularly.

9 If using tapwater you will need to condition it with a good branded conditioner that neutralises chlorine and chloramine. Some also contain extracts that can help to reduce stress on newly introduced fish. If using RO water you will need to add additional minerals. It’s not wise to use pure RO water in any tank. Follow the directions for mineralising the water to be suitable for soft water species. Once filled with water and conditioned, the aquarium should be left to run without fish for a week.

10 Check the water parameters (temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) before adding any livestock. Ammonia and nitrite should always be zero before adding fish. Add the hardiest species first (ask your retailer) or, if they are all too sensitive to tolerate fluctuations in the first few weeks, look at maturing the tank with a very hardy species of fish such as Danios, or use a chemical to mature the tank. Build up the fish numbers very slowly otherwise the water will become polluted.

11 To help the fish settle in to the new tank, turn the aquarium lights off and float the unopened bag for 15-20 minutes to allow the temperature of the water in the bag to equalise with that of the aquarium. Keep an eye on the fish in the bag for signs of distress.

12 Remove the elastic band from the bag or, if it’s tied, cut the knot off. Don’t burst the bag – it will stress the fish. Roll the polythene down evenly. The bag should be able to float at the surface.

13 Acclimatise the fish in the bag by introducing water (about 200ml at a time). Leave for a further five minutes. Release the fish by gently tipping the bag and letting them swim out in their own time. Save as much of the water in the bag as you can and discard it as it will have been polluted by the fish. When adding new fish to the aquarium use a liquid filter booster like Stress Zyme or Cycle to add friendly bacteria to the tank, which will help to break down poisonous fish waste.

14 After several months of scrupulous water testing and tank maintenance, your tank will approach full stocking. Calculate the length of fish that your aquarium will safely hold and stay below it. Stocking equations never take into account 100 or so growing fry, so if your cichlids spawn they’ll need their own tank. If you’re not using carbon, and plant growth is fairly heavy, regularly add a liquid plant food to the water to provide minerals. All branded plant foods are safe to use with fish. Overdosing, however, may cause algal growth.

Plants used in this set-up

Scientific name: Anubias barteri
Origin: Nigeria, Ivory Coast, Cameroon
Size: 6cm/2″ (var. nana) 7cm/21/2″ (var. glabra)
Price: Up to �6.50 per pot
pH: 6.0-7.5
Temperature: 22-25�C/72-77�F
Width: 8cm/3″ or more
Light requirements: very
low to medium.
Notes: Anubias barteri is available in several varieties. It is a small, slow-growing, attractive plant with heart-shaped leaves, which flowers frequently under water and requires little maintenance. The rhizomes should never be buried, but instead will thrive when attached to a stone or tree root.

Scientific name: Nymphaea zenkeri
Origin: West Africa
Size: Up to 30cm/12″ in diameter, although it will remain manageable in the aquarium with careful pruning.
Price: From 75p per bulb
pH: Suits most water conditions
Temperature: 20-28�C/68-82�F
Light requirements: Fairly bright
Notes: Nymphaea zenkeri
has handsome, arrow-shaped, reddish green leaves and red or
blue flowers. Juvenile forms are
low-growing, but adult forms
attempt to reach the surface
and should be pruned back. Fertilisation will encourage
flowering and rampant growth,
so be judicious.

Fish used in this set-up

Thomas� cichlid,
Anomalachromis thomasi
Origin: West Africa: coastal rivers of Guinea (Konkour� River), Sierra Leone and Liberia
Size: 7cm/21/2″
Tank size: 60cm/2′+
Water parameters: Temperature:
23-27�C/73-80�F; pH: 6.0-8.0; GH: 5.0-12.0�
Notes: Peaceful cichlid ideal for newcomers to cichlids. Open-water spawner – offer flat stones for spawning.

African red-eye characin,
Arnoldichthys spilopterus
Origin: West Africa: lower Niger and Ogun rivers in Nigeria
Size: 8cm/3″
Tank size: 100cm+/39″
Water parameters: Temperature:
23-28�C/72-83�F; pH: 6.0-8.0; GH: 5.0-19.0�
Notes: Feeds on small live or frozen aquatic invertebrates. Prefers frequent, minor water changes and plants for cover. Iridescent colours. Shoaling habit.

Leopard-spotted climbing perch,
Ctenopoma acutirostre
Origin: Central Africa: Congo basin
Size: 15cm/6″ approx
Tank size: 90cm/36″ or more
Water parameters: Temperature:
24-25�C/75�F; pH: 6.0-8.0; GH : 5.0-12.0�
Notes: Feed with Mysis and other live, meaty foods. Best kept in a quiet tank with plenty of cover, along with other fish that are too large to be regarded
as food.

Long-finned characin,
Brycinus longipinnis
Origin: West Africa

Size: 13cm/5″ max
Tank size: 100cm/39″ or more
Water parameters: Temperature:
26-28�C/79-82�F; up to 3� GH
Notes: Feeds on small live or frozen aquatic invertebrates. Prefers frequent, minor water changes and plants for cover. Keep with other small, peaceful species and away from fish likely to nibble their finnage.

Giant lampeye,
Aplocheilichthys spp.
Origin: West Africa
Size: 7cm/21/2″
Tank size: 60cm
Water parameters: Temperature:
23-27�C/73-80�F; pH: 6.0-8.0; GH : 5.0-12.0�
Notes: This fish (possibily A. spilauchen) is quite uncommon and is larger than other lampeye species. It is sensitive to poor water – an easier alternative is Aplocheilichthys normani.

Yellow-tailed Congo tetra,
Alestopetersius caudalis
Origin: Central Africa, Congo
Size: 7cm/21/2″
Tank size: 100cm/39″ or more
Water parameters: Temperature:
22-26�C/72-79�F; pH: 6.5-7.8; GH: <12.0�
Notes: Feeds on small live or frozen aquatic invertebrates, such as daphnia, mosquito larvae and bloodworm. Needs open water and the security of a shoal.

Trackback URI | Comments RSS